Putting on a piece from the Fendi haute fourrure fall/winter 2017-18 collection is like cloaking oneself in a sumptuous coat of verdant botanicals. As artistic director, Karl Lagerfeld has dreamed up flowers from another world – a fitting theme far from the grey and gloom of fall/winter, embracing instead the symbols of an exotic garden.
In a nutshell, this haute fourrere collection is a collision of symbolist springtime and ethereal winter.
Fur coats and gowns trail like delicate petals, gathering at the shoulders and cascading into fishtail points. Soft capes trail in the breeze, and contoured sleeves add drama to the shoulder. Winged skirts evoke mythical creatures.
In keeping with the haute detail, Fendi steps up to new traditions with revolutionary technique. Mink is redesigned as a lace fabric for collars and cuffs, and hand cut into a intricate ‘pixel’ confetti of discs on silk organza. Post-Impressionist hand painting sprinkles its magic upon soft landscapes on shaved mink and diaphanous. Embellishment – feather appliques, golden needlepoint and mink thread.
The brighter, the better. All manners of primary colour are celebrated on their own – namely electric blue, purple, red, or combined together. Soft feminine colours are exalted too, in powder puff shades of pink, white and nude.
Not a surface is untouched. Fuzzy fur, textured organza flora, interwoven leather and silky feathers are the crux of this sensorial theme, lending character and animation to each look in its own outstanding way.
Hearts are a recurring presence, as are flowers like the iris, daisy, crocus and poppy. They come to life in a three-dimension inlay of delicate lynx and sable, or edgy as a metallic jacquard and leather lace.
There to witness the bold new season were Hollywood A-listers like Sofia Coppola and Isabelle Huppert, and trendsetters including Delfina Delettrez Fendi, Leonetta Luciano Fendi, Olivia Palermo and Chiara Ferragni.
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