Burberry Fall/Winter 2015 menswear collection

From the bohemian gentleman in Burberry to 1970s florals in J.W. Anderson, here are the highlights of the 'London Collection: Men' shows.

The London Collections: Men kicked off on Friday, starting a season of Fall/Winter 2015 menswear. Here are some of of the highlights from the past week of menswear extravanganza.

Burberry
'Classically bohemian' was the theme at Burberry this season. Christopher Bailey's lads had a bookish air about them with their tortoiseshell-rimmed glasses, corduroy pants, carryall bags and fringed scarves (as is now customary with the tech-forward brand, the latter two options can be preordered online and personalized with your initials). The fringed pieces and folksy touches (inspired by Durham quilts) were mixed with suede, camo and animal patterns for a slightly more rock 'n' roll edge.

Craig Green
There was plenty of expectation on Green's young shoulders following his last show in the summer, where audience members were reportedly brought to tears by the moving tribute to the late Saint Martins Professor, Louise Wilson. He was back with some of the same: tassels, ascetic martial arts champion-inspired silhouettes, and models without shoes. But there were also new ideas: bonded outerwear, thin metallic pinstripes and peekaboo sweaters. Once again it was a print-free zone, with blocks of solid colors. 

J.W. Anderson
Jonathan Anderson (also the judge of Lthe LVMH prize) has been slowly bringing together his men's and womenswear collections, and this latest show from the Northern Ireland born designer was no different. Plenty of touches were borrowed from his recent Pre-Fall 2015 women's line, including the open flares on the pants, the abstract and art deco floral decorative buttons, and the quirky yet practical lapels. Walking on a violet runway, Anderson's models wore knit chokers, and eyelet perforated loafers with their 1970s inspired looks.

Xander Zhou
The young Beijing-based, Dutch-trained designer shows in London, and this was a strong collection from a name to watch. There was an urban rodeo theme to the pieces which included reworked denims, leather tailoring, oversized and decorated collars, and tasseled and fringed finishes with outerwear focused on woven coats, patchwork shearling, and wool topcoats. Footwear-wise, the cowboy utility boot was a key theme, coming with a lug-sole in a variety of finishes.

Agi & Sam
The London design duo Agi Mdumulla and Sam Cotton pulled something of a 180° turn on the pared back palette of their last collection, with a bright, angular, asymmetric look at Fall/Winter 2015. Inside-out pieces came with splashes of color, and baggy coats and pants were joined by patchwork knits, and chunky digital print mittens. Some models also wore Lego masks to highlight the playful direction the Dalston-based designers were channeling.

Pringle of Scotland
Now a couple of years into his job with the Scottish brand, Italian designer Massimo Nicosia is finding his groove. As usual it was all about the knits here, which were paired with slim-cut tailored trousers with a slight turn-up and a series of great outerwear pieces, all pulled together in a pared-back autumnal palette. Footwear was focused on utility and Chelsea boots with rubber galoshes. 

 

(Source: AFP Relaxnews; Photos: All respective brands and AFP PHotos)

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