Before we touch on the ‘how-tos’ of wearing suits in Malaysia’s hot weather, it’s crucial to first talk about the fabrics, especially the ‘breathability’ of the materials.

This simply means how the fabric is weaved and in hot weather, we should look for fabrics that are loosely weaved. To understand this, hold the piece of fabric against the light – are you able to see through it? This promotes the flow of the breeze through the body.

Look for fabrics that are loosely weaved

 

Fabrics such as linens and cottons are preferred (for its strong breathability properties) instead of worsted wool, which is dense in the weave and is commonly found in the lounge suit.

My preference is linen simply for the natural creases that it posses. It has its charm and we need to understand, accept and respect the natural creases found in linen.

Don’t trust what you find online when search results claim that suits for hot weather are made from linens and cottons. This characteristic is not highly acceptable in this part of the world as it is culturally deemed too casual for the boardroom.

Lucky us, with modern advancement in fabric technology, linens are now blended with silk or wool for better structure and in achieving fewer creases. Still tread with caution and stick to your wool suit if you want to be taken seriously in business in this part of the world. My advice is to keep your linens and cottons for casual Thursdays, Fridays and the weekend.

The single-breasted jacket helps promote air circulation through the body

Weight matters: go for fabrics weighing 250 grams or less

This trickles down to the weight of the suit. The idea is to go light in everything. Aim for lightweight fabrics, which are 250grams and less. The lighter the weight that you feel on your skin, the better it will be.

As such, avoid double-breasted jackets and opt for the single-breasted instead. Also, because of the flexibility in buttoning the single-breasted, you are able to unbutton it to promote optimum air circulation through the body.

When wearing a double-breasted jacket, it needs to be fastened at all times, unless you have the flair and character to pull off an unbuttoned double-breasted jacket.

 

Request for ‘Half Lined’

When you are buying your suit (which is very rare), or visiting your preferred tailor, request for a “Half-Lined” making – this means that the bottom half lining at the back of your jacket is removed.

Ask your tailor for a 'half-lined' making, where the bottom half lining of the jacket is removed

There is also another option of the “Unlined” jacket, consisting only of the sleeves lining. The shoulder pads and fusing are removed. This unstructured and very soft-making method leans towards the casual end. You will only find this in the sports jacket and it is rarely seen in the lounge suit.

Again, this is a case of ‘less is more’ and promotes lightness and further air circulation through the body. But don’t do this blindly as the unlined method is typically reserved for the sports jacket. The lounge suit needs some form of structure in it.

Allow some room in the fit of your suit. Anything that is on the extreme end of the slim side will be restricting and uncomfortable in times of hot weather. I am not proponing one size up, but garments that are too form-fitting will trap air, making our body temperature an issue.

Lighter shades reflect heat better

Colours are also a factor to look into as darker shades traps heat easier. Hence, choose lighter shades, which will reflect heat better.

I often hear many blaming the weather as an excuse for not wearing a suit, but take a step back and understand that there is nothing formal in wearing a suit. It is the common and basic code of wear for business worldwide.

It shows respect not only to the person we are about to meet but more so to ourselves. I find it amusing when some claim that wearing a suit is unnecessary or overdressed but he then wears a suit when he is overseas for business dealings. The choice is for us to make, and when something is within our control, I say we handle it and not leave it to chance.   

 

Lim Fang Heng is the CEO of Malaysian bespoke tailoring house Wardrobe.

All photos courtesy of Wardrobe.

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