Coach Archivist Jed Winokur

Coach Archivist Jed Winokur gives an in-depth look into Coach’s immense collection, dated from as early as the 1940s.

Adored and sought after from every place on the globe, Coach is synonymous with the fashion world. This American classic leather goods brand has been around for decades and continues to grow in popularity due to its consistency in producing products of superior craftsmanship and classic style.

Founded in 1941 as a family-run workshop, Coach first originated under the name Manhattan Leather Bags. Impressed by the design of a baseball glove, the company founder decided to create a handbag with similar attributes using tan, supple, high quality leather, featuring excellent stitchwork and craftsmanship.

Coach Archivist Jed Winokur

Working with six artisans, they handcrafted a collection of leather goods using excellent unrivalled skills handed down from generation to generation, luring the attention of discerning consumers who soon began to seek the quality and unique nature of Coach’s artistry.

Now greatly expanded, this well-loved brand continues to maintain supreme standards for its products, committed to upholding the principles of quality and reliability that define the company – and Coach’s very own archivist, Jed Winokur, confirms this. This artistic individual ensures that classic Coach leather goods find immortality, and remain a testament to its brand story, whilst being prudently kept in a special room in the basement of the Coach headquarters in New York City.

Being bestowed with the amazing position as the Coach archivist, Winokur oversees a collection of almost 20,000 handbags and small leather goods dating all the way back to the 1940s.

Coach Archive

HOW HISTORY MAKES A BRAND EVOLVE
The Coach Archive physically catalogues the entire evolution of the brand from day one to its most recent collection. Row after row of leather goods are meticulously organised by date and designer and are labelled accordingly. This leather haven is not just where handbags find happy retirement, but is also where the design team get their inspiration from when creating new collections, new handbags or even adding in a new type of hardware to the product.

The design team works closely with Winokur whenever a new collection is being developed, as the Archive collection helps spark new ideas and at the same time references Coach’s heritage. “The Archive is also used to answer specific requests throughout the entire design process – we may look at equestrian buckles from the 70s, early linings from the 50s, or a tote shape from the 60s, etc. These are the details that make up the Coach brand DNA,” states Winokur.

Winokur’s interest in archiving began several years ago when he worked in fashion editorial and spent some time in various archives. He received his master’s degree from Pratt Institute, Manhattan, in Library Science where he specialised in archive work. “I’ve always been a very organised person and interested in the details of things. When I realised that archive work also included presenting information to others I knew this was what I wanted to do. Here at Coach, the Archive is a living and breathing part of the brand,” he states.

When one looks through the archive of Coach’s earliest pieces, it is easy to tell that the American brand was inspired by a commitment to quality and craftsmanship, which has become a part of their rich heritage in making fine leather goods. “We make bags that are not only beautifully designed, but also endure the test of time and get better with use,” claims Winokur. Another observation that Jed Winokur made while working with the brand’s Archive is how the brand has evolved throughout the years.

The Original Coach bag 1940s

TRUE CRAFTSMANSHIP
“The original Coach bags were simple – a strap, a flap, a pouch without lining. They featured clean lines and they were practically indestructible. More than anything, these bags proved that simplicity could be beautiful when expertly made from the best materials. The designs from this era, primarily the 70s and 80s, are still coveted and collected 40 years later. Having such a rich history and vast archive, we always look back for inspiration. We take these iconic elements and create modern, relevant designs.”

All of Coach’s bags are truly handcrafted by the most skilled craftsmen in the industry. According to Coach’s archivist, there are over 100 steps in making their bags and wallets. This attention to construction and craftsmanship dates back to 1941, the very year that the brand was established, setting Coach apart from competitors in the market. 

Not every vintage bag is easy to find; there are a few from Coach that were only made for one season and these are the hardest to find. According to Jed, “Even harder to find are one-offs from the 40s, 50s, or 60s that we have no record of being made. Every once in a while I come across one of these bags and know right away we need to add it to the Coach Archive collection.

It is always exciting to bring something from our heritage back to the brand so we can use it as a historical resource!” 

 

This article has previously appeared in the May 2013 issue of Malaysia Tatler.