Rethinking the elements of caviar with Cantaloupe at Troika Sky Dining
September 10, 2014 | BY Calvin Chong
Executive Chef Christian Bauer challenges your perception of caviar with dishes like caviar on 'tau foo fah' and escargot-flavoured caviar.
“Not to shock or amaze, but to explore how the changed elements influence our perception of the caviar,” says Christian Bauer, Executive Chef of Cantaloupe of Troika Sky Dining.
That particular notion triggered a sudden boom of ideas that is now transformed into a series of magnificent and innovative caviar delicacies, which includes caviar served with tau foo fah (dessert tofu) and an escargot-flavoured caviar. For the month of September and October 2014, Cantaloupe invites diners to experience the wonderful flavours of caviar, but not as you know it, over six unique mouth-watering dishes.
We were one of the few who got first dibs to the menu and it had us speechless with amazement from the first bite of the zesty roe in its various forms.
Read on for our full review of the Cantaloupe 6-course Caviar Menu.
Caviar and potato blini is a signature dish in Cantaloupe that has gained fame in the Malaysian culinary scene. For this special occasion, Bauer decided to swap out the classic potato blini with a celeriac version that has amore grounded flavour. To complement the earthy blini, trout caviar and flash-grilled cream cheese are used to give a sweet and saline flavour to the fluffy pancake. For a final touch, a sprinkle of toasted caraway seeds is added for that intense aroma that binds the dish together.
This particular variation has probably the strongest flavour in the caviar family, which in turn requires a gentle companion to go with it. Instead of the conventional egg whites, Bauer puts a twist to the dish by pairing the rich caviar with smoked tau foo fah. The homemade beancurd is dowsed in a flavourful dashi to accentuate the flavours and garnished with water chestnut cubes to enhance the texture. Take a spoonful of the caviar and beancurd and you will be pleasantly surprised by its mellow flavours. A tinge of sweetness will also surface after the first few bites, which is a result of reduced maple syrup mixed in the dish.
As a staple ingredient in Japanese cuisine, we usually see salmon roe used in bentos and sushi, but with Bauer, the roe is reconstructed with a serve of pickled oyster tartare and miso glazed aubergine. When tasting the glaze, be mindful to take it in moderation, as it can be rather overpowering when combined with the caviar and tartare. With that in mind, Bauer adds in a side of fennel salad that helps to cleanse the palate from the piquant taste with its sweet nuances.
This particular dish draws inspiration from a traditional escargots bourgignon (escargots on crusty bread). Bauer gives a new look to the snails in the form of caviar, served with a sliced of toasted bread, fragrant whole-roasted garlic and creamy butter. The snail caviar is served separately, so you can decide how much to serve with the bread according to your taste bud.
For the main course, beluga caviar with poached chicken breast takes centre stage in a classic dish that comes with plenty of surprises. For one, the juicy chicken and buttery caviar is served with hollandaise sauce as a zesty touch to tie the pickled roe and chicken together. Along with the chicken comes two suspicious-looking pieces of chicken wings on coffee jus, which upon tasting, turns out to be springy lobster meat wrapped in chicken skin, complete with its bones, sinew and all. Finish up your wondrous main dish with a side of crispy risotto and cauliflower to wash away the burst of flavours and to welcome the finale of the night.
Like any other degustation menu, dinner has to end on a sweet note and what better way to do it than having some dessert caviar, cooked in three ways. Start your indulgence with fluffy pancakes layered with cream cheese and passion fruit to kick start your sweet cravings on a tangy note. Follow up with some sweet marinated strawberries, paired with fragrant elderflower caviar for a sugary climax before ending it with the chocolate mousse. Served with rum sugar pearl caviar, the chocolate has a mellow flavour that balances out the candied goodness from the strawberries and pancakes.
The Cantaloupe Caviar Menu is available daily from now till 31st October 2014 at the price of RM480++ per person for dinner. For reservations, please contact +603 2162 0886 or email firstname.lastname@example.org.
Cantaloupe is located at Level 23A, Troika Sky Dining, The Troika, Persiaran KLCC, Lorong Binjai, 50450 Kuala Lumpur.
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