It was raining on the first day I stopped by Fukuoka, so visiting its famous mobile food stalls, also known as Yatai, was out of the question. On the next fair-weathered evening, however, I headed over to a stretch along Tenjin station to grab a couple of bites. According to locals, there are two common areas for Yatai in Fukuoka: one in Tenjin, and another along Nakasu Island River. The former plays host to these outdoor, no-frills stalls that locals head to usually, and the latter, which is a little pricier, is great for the atmosphere. Stop by Mamichan if you can for their mentaiko omelette and ox-tongue.

Tenjin, 2-13-1, Tenjin, Chuo-ku, Fukuoka, 810-0001, Japan

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All my Japanese friends mentioned having mentaiko when I said I was heading to Fukuoka, and you’ll be hard-pressed to find a place in the city that doesn’t serve it. I’m talking snacks, small eateries, bakeries and more. While I did have mentaiko almost every day at this point, I thought it wouldn’t hurt to treat myself at Ganso Hakata Mentaiju, a restaurant that specialises in the salted cod roe. After a 40-minute wait under the blazing sun, the staff passed me an English menu as I sat down, and recommended I get the Han Men Sui Set, a 3380 yen combination consisting of mentaiju (a piece of kombu-wrapped mentaiko served over white rice topped with nori seaweed), mentai nikomi tsuke-men and mentai soup. It did get a little salty by the end of the meal, but if you’re looking for an iconic, special spot to head to, this is it.

Ganso Hakata Mentaiju, 6-15 Nishinakasu, Chuo Ward, Fukuoka, 810-0002, Japan, +81 92-725-7220

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I came to Fukuoka for the food, but that doesn’t mean I was skipping out visiting the serene Hakata Old Town area, famed for being the home to a concentrated number of Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples. Thankfully, the udon shop I was told to head to was in the area too. Miyake Udon is an icon amongst locals—established in 1954, the eatery has been preparing authentic Hakata udon from the day it opened. The fluffy, soft udon noodles (a characteristic of Hakata udon) is topped with your choice of either burdock tempura, shrimp tempura or fishcake, before a golden tsuyu broth is poured on top of it. For 400 yen, it’s simple, cheap and delicious.

Miyake, 10-24 Kamigofukumachi, Hakata Ward, Fukuoka, 812-0036, Japan

Now, Motsunabe isn’t for faint-hearted or unadventurous eaters. It’s also best had with friends, so I tagged along to Motsunabe Rakutenchi with a couple of new Korean friends I made, all of whom are regular visitors to Fukuoka. The traditional Fukuoka dish comes served in a pot of intestines, topped with vegetables and intestines and simmered—yes, it doesn’t sound that appetising when described this way, but I can assure you the chewy texture of the intestines pair beautifully with the sweet broth and vegetables, and it’s even heartier when you cook noodles into the concentrated broth at the end.

Motsunabe Rakutenchi, 1-1-1 B2F, Acros Fukuoka, Tenjin, Chuo Ward, Fukuoka 810-0001, Japan, +81 92-477-2800

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On my last night in Fukuoka, my host suggested trying Mizutaki, a chicken hot pot dish at Hakata station, a convenient locale for many tourists. Hakata Mizutaki Hamdaya Kouten has options for both group and single diners, and service is nothing short of impeccable. Here, the server is with you every step of the way: the pot comes with chicken meat boiling in a light broth, which is then served with a tangy ponzu sauce. When you’re almost done, chicken meatballs (studded with crunchy cartilage), more chicken parts and vegetables are then added, each time adding even more flavour to the broth. Pro tip: end your meal by ordering some rice and egg to the remaining soup instead of noodles for the ultimate Mizutaki experience.

Mizutaki, 1-1-1017 10F AMU Plaza Hakata City, Hakataekichuogai, Hakata Ward, Fukuoka, 812-0012, Japan, : +81 92-272-0920

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