Meanwhile, in Singapore, chef-owner Li-guang “LG” Han of Labyrinth describes what he does as “a new expression of Singaporean cuisine. It’s not hawker, modern nor traditional in that sense.” The Hainanese chef, an ex-banker who also trained in sales, gave up his financial career to pursue a passion for food. Han’s ambition to uphold Singapore’s culinary heritage, however, stems from his roots: his family. “I’m just cooking food that’s close to my heart—food that my grandparents cooked. I layer these heritage recipes with other iconic dishes.” For Han, innovation is not simply modernising, it’s improving. “We are sensitively reinterpreting a dish to make it better. We always question and look at techniques to see whether we can embrace other methods.”

Head chef and owner of Toyo Eatery in Manila Jordy Navarra sees his cuisine as a living, breathing entity that evolves and adapts but never strays far from the soul of the Filipino people. His grandmother, who used to run a wet market, instilled a love for Filipino food and flavours which is Navarra’s main focus at Toyo. “I continue to be very proud of where I’m from and there’s always that drive to share what I grew up with in the Philippines.” In Navarra’s opinion, preserving the cuisine is not only about serving traditional dishes, it’s about contributing to a culinary dialogue that tells the story of his nation’s heritage. Hoping to find a deeper understanding, he recognises there is much to learn. “In the last few years that Toyo has been open, we feel like we’ve barely scratched the surface of our local cuisine.”

Hidden in the mountain of Pingtung, Taiwan, chef-owner Alex Peng’s cuisine at Akame is based on the traditions of the Indigenous Rukai people, of which he is a descendant. At Akame, meaning “grill” in the Rukai language, he has opted for a wood-fire brick oven over modern stoves, but uses contemporary presentation to engage a modern audience. “The cuisine not only conveys our food culture but also our history and spirit,” says Peng. After graduating from Le Cordon Bleu and working with renowned chef André Chiang in Singapore for almost two years, Peng returned to his roots in the ancient Rukai village of Kucapungane. For him, preserving tradition is a matter of homecoming. “This is our hometown. We have a responsibility to pass it on and continue to share it with more people.”

In the culinary world, honouring tradition while pushing for innovation is a complex dance, one in which the basics must be learnt before adding individual perspectives or flair. “We must respect the heritage,” says Tang. “These recipes come with a long history and are inherited for a reason. Modernising a cuisine should not erase its essence. We should try to keep its style, but elevate it and cater to diners’ preferences.” Tham agrees that innovation starts with tradition. As he puts it, “You must study and learn how to do it the traditional way before innovating. I strongly believe no matter how modern you want your cuisine to be, the fundamentals have to be there.”

Han takes a more multidimensional approach at Labyrinth. “With one of our dishes, we transform the table into a classic steakhouse setting and take diners back in time,” he explains. His innovation process begins with learning the recipes from family members or local hawkers. “We got a guy who makes [roti] prata and a wu xiang xia bing [prawn fritters] auntie to come in and teach us how to make them.” A balance of tradition and creativity, underpinned by the palate of a “local boy”, is central to Han’s cooking philosophy. His dedication to continuous learning also extends to his team, believing that valuable insights can come from them also, regardless of their role.

This method of learning from others is echoed in Peng’s pursuit of innovating with tribal ingredients and cooking techniques, which has also led him to other ethnic groups and communities. He explains, “As long as you go to the original place of ingredients and cooking, and look for the original taste, you can get inspiration from it.” Navarra also uses research and experience to innovate, including visiting farm suppliers and engaging in discussions with his team about regional food traditions. “We’ve visited our farm suppliers so the team can see not just how the food is made but how our farmers cook and eat their produce.”

There is a certain level of unpredictability when reviving these traditions with creativity and innovation. For Tang, the biggest risk is a bad reception. “The market either loves or hates your ideas,” he explains. Tham feels the same way, acknowledging that the comparison between innovative and classic dishes is inevitable. “Are they better or worse?” he muses. In Peng’s opinion, getting people to understand or accept his cuisine can be problematic. “At the beginning, people wanted us to define our cuisine, but we don’t want to be limited,” he explains. To mitigate this, he works hard to thoughtfully communicate the stories behind each dish so that Akame can explore its own narrative.

Han recognises that the attachment Singaporeans have to traditional dishes, especially ones they have grown up with, can be a hindrance to his innovations, noting that his cuisine might face a harsher critique than other modern cuisines due to the ingrained cultural connections. “You’ll never be able to replicate that core memory and win over people’s hearts,” he says. “It may not be the best dish out there but it’s a flavour they know and love.”

Balancing the authenticity of their local cuisine with the expectations of a fine-dining restaurant, all while managing price perceptions, is also something that the chefs we spoke to grapple with. Despite this, they rise to the challenge to ensure a greater understanding of and appreciation for their culture and heritage.

As the conversation between heritage and modernity continues to evolve, one thing remains clear: innovation is not a betrayal of tradition, but an essential ingredient in its preservation and a space where boundless taste combinations and culinary possibilities can occur. In the fires of tradition, chefs are not simply keepers of the flame; they are the bright sparks of evolution, harnessing the power of change that will not only safeguard but fervently celebrate the very traditions they revere. There are, of course, challenges to overcome but with the right balance, innovation can thrive at the intersection of age-old tradition and exciting new ideas.

Five dishes that illustrate each chef’s innovative Asian cuisine

Tribute to Cairnhill Steakhouse
Labyrinth, Singapore

Chef Li-guang Han evokes nostalgia with his interpretation of his grandfather’s steakhouse, but with a creative twist. First, a red and white checked cloth is placed on the table before sizzling Wagyu on a hot plate is served with Hainanese-style red wine black pepper sauce, maitake mushroom, and “jacket potato” with sour cream and smoked bacon bits. A red candle, which is edible, accompanies the dish to reflect the atmosphere of a traditional Hainanese steakhouse.

Shredded duck meat soup
Man Ho Chinese Restaurant, Hong Kong

The shredded duck meat soup is a twist on a traditional Hong Kong winter warmer: snake soup. Recognising that some diners were unable to enjoy this classic dish due to supply issues and dietary preferences, chef Jayson Tang substitutes duck for snake and pairs it with an array of ingredients including chicken, fish maw, mushrooms, ginger, bamboo piths and mushroom. This adaptation aims to bring Cantonese traditions to a broader audience.

Prawn & Shell, Egg yolk
Beta KL, Malaysia

Chef Raymond Tham’s Tour of Malaysia menu at Beta is constantly evolving; but one of the innovations that transforms something familiar into a new dining experience, while maintaining the essence of Malaysian heritage, is a version of prawn noodles from Penang. Tham’s rendition uses fresh prawns slow-cooked into a roulade and served with a bisque made from the heads and shells with bunga kantan, or torch ginger flower.

Wild vegetables with millet wine cheese
Akame, Taiwan

Hoping to express tribal cuisine in a language that modern diners can understand, Akame partners with Taiwanese cheesemaker Man Mano for this dish. The hand-picked wild vegetables are served with millet wine cheese, roasted peanuts, and a half-boiled egg, which help mellow the vegetables’ bitterness and create more layers of flavour.

Bahay kubo
Toyo Eatery, The Philippines

At Toyo Eatery, Navarra elevates Filipino ingredients in dishes such as Bahay Kubo. The dish highlights 18 local vegetables, including white radish, aubergine and winged beans, mentioned in a traditional Filipino folk song of the same name, which is meant to teach children about local vegetables. This innovation encapsulates Navarra’s ambition to showcase the richness of Filipino produce through his inventive techniques.

Image credits: Miguel Nacianceno (Toyo Eatery); Ryan Chiu (Akame); Vezora Production (Beta KL)

NOW READ

A food lover’s guide to Kyoto, Japan

These are the people behind Asia's most popular restaurants and bars

Hong Kong’s newest restaurants & bars to visit right now