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Resident foodie Tokyo Halfie explores the stunning Hokuriku region and unveils insider gems for the freshest seasonal bounties

Located along Japan’s western coast, the Hokuriku region is an under-the-radar destination that is made up of three prefectures Ishikawa, Toyama and Fukui. The region boasts scenic landscapes where mountains meet the sea and enchanting villages rich with historic craftsmanship and exquisite cuisines. With the convenience of the high-speed bullet train connecting both Tokyo and Osaka to Hokuriku in under three hours, this off the beaten track is within reach. If you're considering a trip to Japan, here are a few ideas recommended by resident foodie and travel connoisseur Tokyo Halfie [@tokyohalfie].

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Ishikawa prefecture

With a rich history and timeless charm, Ishikawa is the most visited prefecture within Hokuriku. Its capital Kanazawa is renowned for its historic sites, including the picturesque Higashi-Chaya teahouse district, the meticulously manicured Kenrokuen Garden, and the iconic 21st century Museum of Contemporary Art.

1. Respiracion

The modern Spanish restaurant is housed inside a renovated 140-year-old “kominka” (old wooden traditional houses) building near the bustling Omicho Market. After training in Barcelona, head chef Tatsurou Ume opened Respiracion in 2017 with his two childhood friends. Its name is derived from the Spanish word for breath, symbolising an anchor connecting the breath of life from producers. The gastronomic journey presents beautiful dishes featuring seasonal ingredients, exhibiting the abundance of the prefecture’s edible treasures and the dedication of producers. The pinnacle of the meal is its stunning paella, served with delicacies such as female snow crab, hairy crab, peony shrimp, and firefly squid.

Respiracion
Address: 67 Hakurocho, Kanazawa-shi, Ishikawa 920-0903, Japan, +81-76-225-8681

2. Sushidokoro Mekumi

Nestled in the tranquil residential area of Nonoichi (approximately half an hour's drive from Kanazawa), Sushidokoro Mekumi is most renowned for its crab course served between November and March. After training at various sushi restaurants in Tokyo, master chef Takayoshi Yamaguchi returned to Ishikawa prefecture in 2002 to open his establishment. Yamaguchi drives nearly 250 kilometres every morning to Nanao Port in Noto—a two-hour return journey—to source top-tier ingredients from the region. The intimate seven-seat counter is crafted from Hinoki wood while conscientiously chosen tableware crafted by local artisans enhances the feast. Note that photos of nigiri are not permitted, as each piece should be eaten as soon as it is served.

Sushidokoro Mekumi
Address:, 4-48 Shimobayashi, Nonoichi, Ishikawa 921-8831, Japan, +81-76-246-7781

Fukui prefecture

From the serene Eiheiji Temple to the world-class craftsmanship of Echizen knives, Fukui prefecture takes pride in its rich cultural heritage. Echizen Takefu Station is scheduled to open in March 2024 and will improve accessibility to the area, inviting travellers to a tapestry of unique activities, including washi paper making and lacquer painting workshops.

3. Bistro Un

Located inside a converted 180-year-old warehouse in Takefu, Bistro Un is an unassuming gem. Its menu features local produce that the chef carefully selected, including vegetables from nearby farms and aged fish from the broader Hokuriku region. Each dish is presented on stunning plates handcrafted by local artisans and enjoyed with internationally acclaimed Ryusen Hamono knives with Echizen blades. Its pasta dishes are particularly popular, served with fresh “Un-Men”—a special pasta created in collaboration with “Shikiya Noodle Factory”. It is cut in a similar way to traditional ramen noodles and has a square cross-section, which entangles well with the sauce. The umami-rich echizen arrabiata is not to be missed, prepared with naturally sweet tomatoes from Myojo Farm in Fukui Prefecture, and topped with mozzarella and basil.

Bistro Un
Address: 1-22 Honmachi, Echizen, Fukui 915-0823, Japan, +81-778-42-7123

4. Sushi Toyo

This family-run casual sushi restaurant is tucked away in Takefu Town in Fukui Prefecture, specialising in fresh seafood from the Sea of Japan. The current sushi master started to learn the ropes from his father at the young age of 15, before taking over Sushi Toyo after two decades of apprenticeship. Spending over half a century building his career, the shokunin is now training the third generation to continue the family legacy. Each slice of sashimi is carefully sliced with a handcrafted Echizen knife, and prepared into nigiri and otsumami (small dishes). Between November and March, approximately half of the ingredients are sourced exclusively from Fukui Prefecture, including the delicacy Echizen gain–a long-legged snow crab with a rich flavour. Those looking to elevate the culinary experience can book out the restaurant for a supplementary fee in advance to partake in a “Nigiri Lesson” before their meal.

Sushi Toyo
Address: 1 Chome-9-20 Kokufu, Echizen, Fukui 915-0076, Japan, +81-778-22-4771

Toyama prefecture

Surrounded by the towering peaks of the Northern Japanese Alps, Toyama is known for its dynamic landscapes and natural beauty. In the winter, the majestic Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route offers travellers an extraordinary journey through “snow walls”.

5. Ishitani Mochiya

Founded over a century ago during the Meiji Era, Ishitani Mochiya is famous for its “dango”–a traditional Japanese confectionary that consists of mochi balls on a stick. The secret to its delightfully soft and chewy texture is the Toyama-produced “Shin Taishou Mochi” rice, which is soaked and cooked in fresh water from Ishikuramachi before pounding and rolling into mochi. The signature Ayame Dango is covered with a thick brown sugar syrup, whilst the popular Mitarashi Dango is brushed with a sweet soy-based sauce. The Goma Dango is a must-try, topped with a blend of finely ground black sesame.

Ishitani Mochiya
Address: 1-5-33, Chuodori, Toyama City, Toyama 930-0044, Japan, +81-76-421-2253

6. L’Évo

For a tranquil overnight culinary experience, the auberge at L’Evo is the perfect destination. The innovative fusion restaurant is tucked away in the forest in Togamura near the Tateyama mountains (a two-hour drive from Toyama Station) where Owner Chef Eiji Taniguchi forages. Its avant-garde style showcases locally sourced vegetables, game meat, and seafood.

Although guests are welcome to visit solely for lunch or dinner, a reservation of one of their three cottages is recommended to maximise the visit—its Nordic-style wooden sauna and nourishing breakfast complete the transcendent experience. The slippery winter roads can be dangerous to navigate, so it is advised to request a taxi shuttle service from Etchu-Yatsuo Station in advance during the colder months for a supplementary fee. 

L’Évo
Address: 100 Tanoshima, Togamura-Daikanba, Nanto-shi, Toyama


Tokyo Halfie is a half Japanese and half English foodie living in Tokyo, and is passionate about travelling and discovering new restaurants. Having grown up in Tokyo, San Francisco and London, she realised that food is one of the most important elements of our culture. She started her career in London working for an investment bank, before returning to her hometown in the Japanese capital. She now works in FinTech by day, and manages her personalised restaurant itinerary service by night. Follow her on Instagram at @tokyohalfie.

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