Chardonnay Vs Chardonnay
Sam Stephens: I can’t stress enough what a difference the climate makes in winemaking. It comes into play when winemakers are deciding how ripe they want their grapes and what style of wine they want to achieve. Because it is just a little bit warmer in California than in Australia’s Chardonnay-growing region, what we tend to find with Californian wines, particularly with white wines, is that they’re slightly richer and more powerful. Whereas in Australia, particularly in the last 10 or 15 years, there has been a real move towards trying to get more of cool climate expression that’s pristine and elegant.
Samantha Lim: You can even see it in the colours.
Sam Stephens: Very much so. You’ve got that golden hue coming through in the Beringer, not to mention that viscosity.
Swirl both glasses and observe the legs or tears that flow down by the side; they drip a little slower in the Beringer, whereas in the Bin 311 from Penfolds, the legs form faster and dissipate in less time. This effect is an indicator of a wine’s body or viscosity.
What affects viscosity? Many things, from sweetness to ABV (alcohol by volume), and whether or not a bottle of wine is new or was opened prior. As both these wines are dry, you can rule out sweetness levels. The alcohol content is slightly higher in the Beringer by only half a degree. But more new oak is being used on the Beringer Napa Valley, which is what makes the wine more leggy.
Samantha Lim: So oak accounts for viscosity?
Sam Stephens: Yes, particularly with new oak, which generally results in a richer, oilier and a more viscous mouthfeel. With Chardonnay, you can get more of that vanillin content or a coconut characteristic.