In a night of fine food and wine, we put to test the range of notes of Hugel wines with a splendid spread by Chef Benjamin Halat of Mandarin Oriental KL.
Ranking as among the oldest wineries in all of France, Hugel & Fils wines are highly sought after for many reasons. The brand has under its wing, the purest expressions of Gewurztreminer, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Muscat and Pinot Blanc, all of which have no ‘makeup’ from oaking and sweetening.
To really put to test the notes and body of each wine, we sit down to a dinner by Chef Benjamin Halat of Mandarin Oriental KL and let it take us away on a food and wine pairing journey that showed us the true beauty of Alsace grapes.
Tuna Carpaccio & Tartar with Wasabi Ice Cream and Ponzu sauce
Paired with 2012 Hugel Riesling
Tuna carpaccio is chosen as the starter of the night so that its slightly salted fattiness will bring out the medium body of its paired 2012 Hugel Riesling. Its creamy start matches the light opening of the Riesling but more complicated flavours await. The wine starts off a little tight at first but is duly opened up to blooming floral notes by the sour and spicy wasabi ice cream. Sharp and fruity towards the end, it proves to be a highly food-friendly wine that is easy to drink.
Roasted Scallop with Mace and Loster Sauce and Cauliflower
Paired with 2010 Hugel Riesling “Tradition”
A smoky and briny scallop dish is next to match another star Riesling, this time the 2010 “Tradition” that is one of Hugel’s bestsellers. The smokiness of the scallop brings the fruitiness of the wine to the forfronts of the palate at first sip. Much fuller, richer and rounder than the previous wine, its flavours blossom the longer it is left in the glass. Sipped with a mouthful of scallop, it takes on an almost saccharine sweetness that extends the creaminess of the shellfish.
Crispy Pan-Fried Duck Breast with Chick Pea Cream and Smoked Egg Plant
Paired with 2012 Hugel Gewurztraminer
The spiciest wine in the Hugel inventory with intense blooms of peach, mango and roses is selected to be paired with red meat of duck. The combination results in an exciting medley on the palate that that cuts through the gameyness of the duck while playing up its almost herbal marinade. A silky smooth serving of chick pea cream subdues the spices while lengthening the sweetness of the wine.
Foie Gras Ravioli served with Madeira Foam and Black Truffle
Paired with 2011 Hugel Gewurztraminer “Tradition”
Foie gras is made doubly rich by being stuffed into a ravioli and then drizzled with Madeira foam. On the taste front, black truffle adds to its earthy muskiness for a dish that is immensely rich in texture and flavour. Hugel’s 2011 Gewruztraminer somehow manages to match the dish’s richness with equally punchy flavours. Its light body ensures the foie gras and truffle does not get overshadowed while its long beautiful tail lets the richness of the wine linger in the periphery of one’s palate.
Josper Grilled Veal Tenderloin with Bean Cassoullet and Potato Praline
Paired with 2010 Hugel Pinot Noir
The leanest, most tender cut of veal is served to match the single red on the menu. Like the meat, the pinot noir proves non-oily and medium-bodied with a roundness that envelopes the tongue. It pulls to the front the mild sweetness of the young beef in the subtlest, non-intrusive manner while adding to it, its own fruity sweetness. While not the best wine on the menu, it matches the veal pleasantly enough for a satisfactory pairing.
Blue Cheese with Raspberry Jam and Caramelised Walnut
Paired with 2005 Hugel Gewurztraminer “Vendange Tardive”
Contrary to popular belief, we are told that the sweetest port wine doesn’t necessarily go best with sweet desserts as the clashing sweetness from wine and dessert will see one stealing the limelight from the other. Hugel’s port wine, the 2005 Gewurztraminer “Vendage Tardive” is paired in with an unconventional counterpart – blue cheese. Much to our pleasant surprise, the pungent notes of the blue cheese only let the sweetness of the wine shine because it serves as a salty base contrast. The accompanying raspberry jam and caramelised walnut lend a soft nuttiness to the equation that extends the fruitiness of the wine.
Hugel & Fils Wines is available for taste and purchase at Mandarin Grill, Mandarin Oriental KL. For more dishes for pairing from Chef Benjamin Halat, please call Mandarin Grill at 03 - 2179 8960.
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