"For more than twenty thousand years, people everywhere have been wrapping food in leaves . . ." ("You and I Eat the Same," 2018, Aralyn Beaumont)

A practical and environmental solution to sealing in flavours, banana leaves are crucial to the success of Gin Rik Sha's star dish. Pull apart the makeshift parcel to release tendrils of steam while revealing the baked sea bass on a bed of basmati pulao. Soft, caramelised onions contrast the crunch of brinjal seeds in a side sambal, which goes splendidly with the al dente grains.

Named after the humble rickshaw, Gin Rik Sha takes its guests on an unhurried tour of the owner's family recipes. From Yogurt Chat Bomb to Spicy Honey Garlic Rack of Lamb, Gin Rik Sha's dishes may derive inspiration from iconic street eats or fine dining favourites, but best fall under the category of comfort food — with contemporary twists.

One of 30 odd restaurants that encircle Plaza Damansara, Gin Rik Sha may face tough competition from contenders such as Flour and A Li Yaa, but holds a trump card: its cosy al fresco area is perfect for sundowners. Sip on aperitifs, digestifs and tasty tipples such as the Stress Buster Tea, a warm brew containing gin, masala herbs, tamarind and lime. Reminiscent of rasam, the acidic beverage was an apt means to awaken our appetites. Hold off on the The Lavender Sour, however, as the dried buds have long lost their lustre.

Despite the awkward servingware & silverware, which required chasing our desserts round and round our plates, dessert — Kulfi with Caramelised Bananas & Sesame Brittle & Carrot Halwa Silo Pastry Samosas with Black Pepper Ice Cream — was scarfed down in seconds.