A display at Fine Arts Paris & La Biennale 2022
Cover A display at Fine Arts Paris & La Biennale 2022

Paris has been dubbed Europe’s capital for antiques aficionados and a survey of its landscape reveals why

It’s impossible to walk down the street in Paris and not be struck by the gauze of history that careens across the city. Mascarons sit above the arches of heavy wooden doors, gargoyles snarl from stone turrets, and wrought iron railings twist and turn across beige terraces with the arabesque of grapevines.

Much of this is centuries old—a reflection of the design language that stems from France’s deep‐rooted appreciation of art, culture and history. It is little wonder that the city is a magnet for buyers, purveyors and connoisseurs of antiques and vintage objects looking to decorate their living spaces.

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Indeed, the country’s proclivity for aged beauty stands as an antidote to these fast times, when everything can be purchased through an app and even coveted designer furnishings tend to be delivered straight out of a factory. That may have its appeal, but those who hanker after unique one‐off pieces with a backstory will revel in Paris’ antiques and vintage offerings.

“It is the love of beauty and history, the passion for discovering new objects and knowledge and, of course, the pleasure of creating a singular interior decor—a personal one,” says Parisian antiques purveyor Claudie Ferré when asked about the appeal of antiques. 

Ferré runs her eponymous business, and is an enthusiast who pours her passion for collecting rare pieces into a thriving business. “We scour the continent and further afield to collect the very best that the 20th century has to offer,” she says. The Salon des Antiquaires 2023, a pop‐up market in the affluent Saint‐Sulpice neighbourhood, is where she exhibits her vintage pieces dated from the 1920s to the ’80s, her tent is decked out with the likes of art deco lamps, precious silverware and ornate objets d’art.

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The Porte de Vanves weekend market; the selection at Claudie Ferré includes lighting and tableware.
Above The Porte de Vanves weekend market

Ferré is one of hundreds of exhibitors showcasing curated antiques ranging from gilded rococo chandeliers to jewellery and small curiosities to fire up your imagination. The pop‐up market joins a roster of regular weekend staples at Saint‐Ouen and Porte de Vanves, random flea markets that crop up on small streets, and the hundreds of professional antiques stores hidden on Paris’ winding streets.

So passionate is France for antique objects that a 2021 report by the Observatory of Economic Complexity noted the country’s antiques exports ringing up a total of US$248 million at the cash tills. While that is a large figure, it does not include domestic purchases, many of which are done online through apps such as Leboncoin, or at flea markets where some sellers are simply clearing out mamie’s attic for a bit of spare cash. 

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The selection at Claudie Ferré includes lighting and tableware.
Above The selection at Claudie Ferré includes lighting and tableware.

Indeed, the French antiques industry is extremely diverse, summoning everyone from weekend hobbyists who find joy in combing through scrappy flea markets to champagne‐sipping clientele clutching their pearls as the auctioneer slams the hammer on an ancient Roman vase. “France has a long history, and we take pride in preserving that craftsmanship and savoir faire,” explains Alain Moreau, owner of La Sorgue, a store specialising in small furnishings from the southern French countryside. “This is why pieces dating back to the days of the monarchy are not rare. Older items tend to be better made by skilled craftsmen and will last for many generations—sometimes even hundreds of years if properly maintained.”

So serious is this hobby that the French language itself has specific words related to it that do not translate well into English. Chineur for instance, means bargain hunter, or someone who regularly scours pop‐up markets for treasures. Brocanteur refers to professional sellers at brocantes, weekend pop‐ups that tout a better selection of curated objects.

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Bring home a unique memento, from objets d’art such as the rooster sculpture
Above Bring home a unique memento, from objets d’art such as the rooster sculpture

In fact, there is an entire literary industry of magazines with names like Le Chineur, Antiquités Brocante, and La vie du Collectionneur that cater to these enthusiasts. These publications often run tips on recognising valuable antiques and how to date them based on period styles, proving that acquiring old objects also means acquiring knowledge about them.

Visiting aficionados looking to purchase antiques with a clear lineage can rest assured that the many bricks‐and‐mortar antiques stores make it a breeze. Many of these sellers are part of an association called the Syndicat National des Antiquaires, one of the oldest associations of antiques and art dealers in France. The nearly 300 members strong group have pledged themselves to a powerful code of ethics‐based authenticity, quality and honourability.

 

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You can also purchase glass sculptures the next time you are in the French capital
Above You can also purchase glass sculptures the next time you are in the French capital

Of course, not every visitor actually requires a rococo privacy screen or a massive chandelier to rival those in the glass hall at Versailles. For casual hobbyists looking for a small memory to take home, there are plenty of markets carrying objects of every size and price point. For them, Ferré advises examining the quality of the objects, speaking to the sellers, and looking for those who are “knowledgeable and open to having a conversation to explain what the [objects] are”. She quips: “That is, provided there’s no issue with the language!”

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A display at Fine Arts Paris & La Biennale 2022
Above A display at Fine Arts Paris & La Biennale 2022

Four spots to visit the next time you are in Paris:

1. FAB PARIS
In 2022, La Biennale Paris (a fair that has been running since 1956) and Fine Arts Paris entered a merger—Fine Arts La Biennale, or Fab Paris for short. It has become one of Paris society’s most important events of the year, drawing art and antiques collectors, as well as luminaries from the arts, literature, politics and history worlds.

This year’s edition will be held from November 22 to 26 at the Grand Palais Ephémère. The list of exhibitors is still growing at the time of publication, but visitors can expect jewellery, Asian art, rare books and museum-worthy sculptures.

Address: Grand Palais Éphémère, 2 Pl. Joffre, 75007 Paris, France

2. SALONS DES ANTIQUAIRES
Taking place twice a year for 10 days each time, Salons des Antiquaires is a convivial open‐air market of tents housing antique purveyors in the open space in front of the Saint‐Sulpice church. The fair brings together dealers of furniture, art, jewellery and even period costumes from the 17th to 20th century, chosen for their diversity, quality and authenticity. The next fair will be happening from October 5 to 15.

3. MARCHÉ AUX PUCES DE SAINT-OUEN
This is one of Europe’s oldest antiques market (it has been running since the Middle Ages) and also one of the world’s largest. With more than 2,500 stalls spread across seven hectares in the northern end of Paris offering up a vast array of antiques, vintage fashion and unique finds, it could take days for the average visitor to truly comb through the entire sprawling labyrinth. Dealers of the bigger, more valuable pieces are known to carry pieces on commission by independent owners, so while prices are a little lower than many antiques shops, it is by no means spare change. If you spot a large piece of furniture you cannot leave Paris without, fret not, as many of the storekeepers can arrange for freight to Singapore. The market is open from Friday to Monday, so bargain hunters have more than enough time to take stock of the selection.

Address: 110 Rue des Rosiers, 93400 Saint-Ouen-sur-Seine, France

4. MARCHÉ AUX PUCES DE LA PORTE DE VANVES
What is it about Paris’ antiques markets sitting at opposite ends of the city? For bargain hunters who love small discoveries at affordable prices, the market at Porte de Vanves, located in the south of Paris, is your port of call. Here, you will find tables filled with curiosities lining both sides of the pavement every weekend. The assortment is fascinating and well priced, and even casual browsers will likely leave with something small. There are gleaming candelabras, old mirrors, porcelain, vintage crystal and books that are hundreds of years old. This is a hobbyist’s hunting ground, and while the sellers are friendly and sociable, few would know the exact provenance of their wares.

Address: 4 Av. Georges Lafenestre, 75014 Paris, France

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Credits

Photography  

Frédéric Fontenoy-Alkama/Galerie Malaquais (sculpture); Victor Raeth (Market); Claudie Ferré (Lighting), Tanguy De Montesson/Fab Paris (Biennale Display)

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