SETTING

All the buzz over Ginza Tenkuni since its opening in 2016 at The St Regis Kuala Lumpur is well-worth the hype from the moment one steps into the restaurant. Its minimalist and practical decor done in classic Japanese style with marble flooring and wooden wall panels oozes understated timeless elegance. As is prevalent in Japanese dining establishments, the sushi counter and tempura counter both dominate the restaurant and this where diners can enjoy watching the expertise of the chefs in preparing their meals right in front of them, working up their appetite. Each counter seats 16 and alternatively, diners preferring privacy can opt for private rooms that offer beautiful views of KL Sentral.

FOOD

Omakase tempura is the order of the day here, but to truly experience the intricacies of Japanese fine dining cuisine, the Wagyu or traditional kaiseki degustation menus are excellent samplers as the multi-course menu uses choice seasonal ingredients, involves extensive preparation and showcases the skills of the chef, who in this case is chef Satoshi Uehara.

The Wagyu sashimi and sea urchin with bonito and soy sauce flakes starts off the Wagyu kaiseki. Fresh custard-like sea urchin is eaten with wafer-thin raw Wagyu beef wrapped around it, and strikes a good balance between briny and raw meat flavours. Next, is a Wagyu shabu shabu featuring finely cut Wagyu beef slices and autumn vegetables boiled in the hot pot and dipped into ponzu sauce before being eaten. The clear broth ensures that the meat remains succulent and the ponzu sauce adds a slight tangy zest to the fresh meat taste. Throw in the vegetables after the meat and you will get a deliciously sweet pot of broth that will please soup lovers.

Grilled to medium rare perfection is the highlight of the menu – the chargrilled Wagyu. The thickly cut nuggets are succulent and tender with excellent marbling. What follows is the sesame flavoured Wagyu on rice with green tea sauce, a light and sweet complement to the grilled dishes before.

On the other hand, the traditional kaiseiki menu leans more towards seafood, and diners will not be disappointed with Chef Satoshi’s selection.

DRINKS

Being a fine dining Japanese establishment, there is a wide selection of sakes and other Japanese alcohol available and naturally diners are apt to go with any one of these for their food pairings. Alternatively, a curated wine list offering wines from both old and new world wineries are also available for diners wishing for a different type of pairing experience.

SERVICE

Service is impeccable, as one would expect from a fine dining restaurant in a top hotel. From being greeted and ushered to your seat, to the meal service, staff are attentive throughout without being intrusive. They are knowledgeable about the menu, the ingredients used and the culinary preparation involved, despite it being an omakase menu that is constantly changing. Dishes are served and cleared in a timely manner. Requests are attended to without fuss and the staff strive to enhance the dining experience for diners.

PRICE

While prices are high when compared to other fine dining establishments in KL, the culinary expertise of chef Satoshi, the freshness of the seasonal ingredients, the top-notch dining experience and the reputation of the establishment justifies it. As dining experiences go, omakase is indeed an adventurous way to sample the culinary expertise and creativity of the chef with the freshest of ingredients on hand, and in this respect, Ginza Tenkuni does not disappoint.