Chanel: The Inspiration

A Rockabilly angle took flight, with cuff booties, quiffs and ponytails galore. Adorning the garments were crystal embroideries arranged to a cobblestone pattern, tulle; netted and embellished with gold evoking padlocks of the Pont des Arts.

Chanel: Return of the Classics 

As is customary Chanel, classics like tweed made a sophisticated comeback, alongside couture fabrics of flannel, velvet, crêpe, lace, taffetas, and chiffon, tucked, tailored and draped to shape a slender silhouette. The core theme was zips embellished with braid, constructing an elegant effect as contrasting linings, or unzipped to revel mini skirts or long, fingerless gloves.

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Chanel: The Finer Details

 Fall necessitates the iconic suits, with designs alternating between trompe-l’oeil dresses and long coats, enriched with sequins, beads, crystals, and high band collars, for that couture overtones.

Chanel: Evening Wear

Drama descends with eveningwear, tops and skirt contrast, with the former adorned and embroidered, whilst the latter light and draped. Split shoulders, bustier waistcoats and crystal-studded tops merge with tiered chiffon with flat pleats, buoyant bubble skirts or voluminous shapes. Among the organza, stitched aluminium and feathers, the iconic Chanel black dress is recognisable, updated with braided tweed and pleated silk geogette.

Dior: The Female Wanderer

Over at Dior, all eyes were on the female explorer, on her audacious and unconstrained navigation of the world. Dior's artistic director, Maria Grazia Chiuri, was inspired by a quote from autobiographer, Albert Decaris – “A complete collection should address all types of women in all countries” – which inspired a tapestry of the atlas and faraway lands on this couture season, and the heroines who borrowed from the masculine wardrobe and paired with ethnic pieces.

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Dior: Prairie Couture

The set’s wild scenery and lush vegetation set the tone for a safari-meets-prairie collection showcasing menswear fabrics and forms, wrapped, tailored and transformed into shimmering surfaces and chiaroscuro.

Dior: Masculine Features

Jackets, coats, blouses and jumpsuits gave an air of nonchalant refinement, most strikingly, aviator jackets and pleated culotte skirts. Some sharp looks were contrasted with the softness of swishing skirts, and baggy forms tapered by waist belts. A significant accessory, the Dandy fedora hats designed by Stephen Jones marked the milliner’s 20th anniversary with Dior.

Dior: Colourful Emotions

The vagabond theme flows on as topography of emotions told through little detail like colours, flowers, and tarot card embroidery. Weaved into jackets, dresses and skirts, they paint a continuation to Dior’s astronomical fascination.

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Dior: Evening Elegance

On evening dresses, traces of atlases were worked into the fabric of capes, silk and tulle gowns, and the dreamy prairie lady makes her appearance in the colour schemes of grey, pink and velvet.

Fendi: Old Meets New

Led by the pursuit of integration, Fendi showcases the coming together of texture and technique this couture season, flitting between tradition and new innovations. The female figure was fêted with the art of Orphism and neoclassical, underlined by bold latticework.

Fendi: Young Aristocratic 

The softness of a ballerina and grandeur of a noblewoman emerged from creations of intricate couture, from the impasto rainbow palette of fur coats and embellished suits, through elaborate gowns in apricot, lavender and sherbet.

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Fendi: Opulent Details

Fendi employed sumptuous fabrics, as frayed organza, fringe chiffon added a feathery effect to cashmere, mink and shearling. Ballerina gowns and opera coats were adorned with rosette swirls, lace and embroidery. Sheer gowns combined ermine and sequins in a whimsically romantic outcome.

Fendi: Elevated Accessories

Worthy of mention, were bejewelled minaudière clutches embossed with glossy, sumptuous layers some mimicking marble, malachite and mother-of-pearls. Carry the outfit further were couture pumps, combining a technique of lampshade heels stacked with maple, Perspex and horn.

Giambattista Valli x Chopard: Young Ambition

Giambattista Valli injected a new kind of attitude into couture, one of youth and whimsy. The flamboyant theme saw a union with Chopard Haute Joaillerie, in a fashion showcase of artistic flair.

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Giambattista Valli x Chopard: Party Outfits

The couture season was livened up with all manners of dance-appropriate garments, from silk duchesse bandeau tops and high-waisted black trousers in midriff skimming looks favoured by partygirls.

Giambattista Valli x Chopard: Excessive Embellish

Flirty minidresses were festooned with feathers, textures and most notably, elaborate statement sleeves. Bows were a central fixture; with each ensemble dedicated to the girlish ornament, be it on garment or in the hair, intimating a present to be unwrapped.

Giambattista Valli x Chopard: Contemporary Bride

Flowing, long silhouettes trailed in silk chiffon, while Chantilly lace and tulle shaped conceived cheeky and flirty pieces with 2D floral motifs. Netted veils sealed the contemporary union with Chopard jewels, which some models donned with their sparkling jewellery.

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Giambattista Valli x Chopard: Gems and Stones

The Valli haute couture show saw a pairing with Chopard’s select pieces, like the effervescent 18 carat white gold set with pear-shaped and marquise-cut diamonds, 18 carat octagonal step-cut emerald of 22 carats and pear-shaped diamonds, cushion-shaped diamonds and brilliants earrings, and long necklace in 18 carat white gold with rose-cut diamonds.

Giambattista Valli x Chopard: More Bling

Other accessories include rings stacked upon fingers, worn with embroidered mermaid gowns, and tulle cocktail skirts and pixelated motifs – all of which extended a girlish aristocracy. 

Patuna: Casino Royale

American-Georgian designer Petuna intended her couture collection to celebrate a woman’s role in a men’s world – the elegant, self-assured lady who walks into a casino to play at the poker table. Classic indulgences of dramatic evening dresses and sky-high stilettos are set the stage for empowered femininity.

Patuna: Sheer Sophistication

Draping is key, for the myriad of luxurious fabrics from light pink chiffon, beige tulles and lacey finery. Sheer transparencies and silky satin are adorned with Swarovski crystals and precious stones for a touch of refined glamour.

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Patuna: Couture Origami

Architectural techniques are sported through the structures of trains and silk, gathered in folds and curls. Billowing capes, strong colours and sheer panels meet and mingle, created by a contrast of rigourous and fluid drapes strategically throughout the dress.

Patuna: Sex Appeal

Glamour is in the detail: From the thigh-high splits to the floating collar details, and exaggerated silhouettes to the structured forms, the possibilities of haute couture are endless even.