Cover We highlight five unsung heroes in the skincare game (Photo: Getty Images)

Beyond hyaluronic acid, vitamin C and other buzzy ingredients are some overlooked ones that are as effective—and brands like Rihanna’s Fenty Beauty are putting them at the forefront

Hyaluronic acid, vitamin C and retinol have been some of the undisputed stars of the skincare industry in recent years, and while these ingredients are effective in their own ways, there are several other equally powerful ones found in beauty product formulas that don’t get the same kind of attention.

Here, we shed light on five underrated ingredients—and five brands that have incorporated them in their products.

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1. Copper peptides

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Above Halto Major Moonbow Repairing Gel Mask (Photo: courtesy of Halto Major)

Copper peptides—which are naturally found in the body—have rejuvenating properties that can help in healing wounds. But their amount in our body decreases with age, which is why we need to apply them topically via skincare products.

Those looking to incorporate this ingredient into their beauty routine might look towards Halto Major, a newly launched Hong Kong-based brand that features copper peptides in its products. Think the Moonbow Repairing Gel Mask and Moonbow Cleansing Mousse, which contain copper peptides and essential oils of bitter orange, sweet orange and ylang-ylang, all of which promise to aid in skin repair.  

2. Glycerin

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Above Fenty Beauty Hydra’Reset Intensive Recovery Glycerin Hand Mask (Photo: courtesy of Fenty Beauty)

Glycerin is one of the most commonly used components in skincare, especially in moisturisers and cleansers, but it often sits in the shadow of buzzier ingredients. It’s a super hydrating humectant, which means it works by attracting water from the air and pulling it into your skin, thereby keeping it from getting dry.

Rihanna’s brand Fenty Beauty puts it front and centre in its Hydra’Reset Intensive Recovery Glycerin Hand Mask, which contains 40 per cent glycerin and is said to result in soft, hydrated hands.

3. Squalane

Squalane is a saturated oil that’s derived from squalene, an oily compound found naturally in plants and animals. It is often used in skincare products as a moisturising and anti-inflammatory ingredient.

Squalene and squalane are both harvested from shark liver—but the latter is also extracted from plant-based sources such as olive and rice bran. Those conscious about having only natural ingredients in their products should check the label to see if it says “natural squalane”.

Try Blue Balancing Facial Oil Serum by Ukviat, an eco-friendly skincare brand based in Poland. Apart from squalane, this serum also contains blue tansy oil and milk thistle seed oil, which are said to be hydrating and nourishing ingredients for the skin.

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4. Azelaic acid

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring ingredient found in wheat, barley and rye. Its anti-inflammatory properties make it effective for treating skin concerns like acne and redness. It also inhibits melanin production on the skin, thereby tackling hyperpigmentation. It’s been scientifically proven to be less irritating on the skin compared to other acids with similar benefits, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.   

Take, for example, US-founded brand Paula’s Choice’s 10% Azelaic Acid Booster, a lightweight gel that promises to reduce blemishes, sun spots and redness.

5. Bakuchiol

Bakuchiol, a compound found in the leaves and seeds of the babchi plant, has been used in Ayurvedic medicines for centuries. Clinical studies in 2019 found this ingredient to be as effective as retinol (an antioxidant derived from animals or synthetically produced in a lab) in addressing skin concerns that often come as we age. Since then, bakuchiol has been hailed as the “natural alternative to retinol”, with many beauty brands incorporating it in their products.

Purposeful Skincare by Allies (PSA) is one such brand that uses this ingredient: its Liquid Clarity BHA Bakuchiol Blemish Recovery Booster is marketed as a product that is effective in dealing with fine lines and wrinkles.

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