Gucci’s new creative director, Sabato De Sarno, debuted at the Milan Fashion Week (Photo: Instagram / @gucci)
Cover Gucci’s new creative director, Sabato De Sarno, debuted at the Milan Fashion Week (Photo: Instagram / @gucci)

Luxury expert Daniel Langer looks at Gucci's new creative director’s debut collection at the Milan Fashion Week

Gucci’s new creative director, Sabato De Sarno, who joined the brand following the departure of Alessandro Michele, unveiled his first collection in Milan last month, which coincided with the brand’s Ancora marketing takeover in the world’s most important fashion capitals. In time with his debut, there was also a social media reset that eliminated all remaining traces of the Michele era and signalled a fresh start.

The first collection received mixed feedback from fashion experts. This ranged from enthusiastic voices celebrating Gucci’s return to form, exclusivity, craftsmanship, and more sexy silhouettes—that some commented as a less provocative and more subtle homage to the “sex sells” aesthetic from the Tom Ford era— to critics who pointed out that the collection was playing it too safe, and focused too much on the technical side instead othe opulence, confidence and emotional attitude that was linked to Gucci’s meteoric rise during the Michele era.

It is important to highlight that every new designer is under immense scrutiny and pressure when developing and showing their debut collection, and therefore De Sarno’s debut is probably an attempt to gauge reactions before further calibrating and developing his creative approach. There is no question, however, that the brand is embarking on a radical departure from the era of Michele with the aim to position Gucci as more upmarket, and less of an aspirational luxury brand.

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De Sabato himself hinted at a possible and significant departure, and emphasised that the brand wants to give people “the opportunity to fall in love with fashion—and ancora”, which was the theme of the campaign that accompanied his debut show.

The first visible step Gucci is taking towards presenting itself as more upmarket is the introduction of Gucci “salons”, which are exclusive boutiques reserved only for the brand’s very important clients—a page taken from the playbook of Chanel and Dior. However, it is critical now to avoid making the same mistake as Frida Giannini had when she was Gucci’s creative director, where the fashion collections were beautifully crafted but lacked the storytelling of the brand’s core values.

Even now, when you look at the brand today, the storytelling is ambiguous and the imagery could be that of other fashion brands. However, clarity of storytelling is the most critical driver of perceived brand value, and in times when the execution changes, staying true to the core values is more critical than ever.

Clearly communicating a brand’s core values is even more important in today’s reality—where brands, expectations and categories change faster than ever before and at staggeringly accelerated rates—because it gives its clients a critical anchor. Louis Vuitton is a good example. When the brand appointed the late Virgil Abloh as creative director and internal disruptor, its core values did not change; and now with Pharrell Williams, while Louis Vuitton’s creative expression is evolving further, its core values stay intact.

This goes to show how important it is that while creative directors may add texture and cultural relevance to the brand, they stay true to the core ethos and the brand story. For De Sarno and his team, this means a lot of work ahead as they shape the future of one of the world’s most iconic brands.

This could be at risk for Gucci if the emphasis is more on creative execution and radical change rather than in staying true to the narrative that made people fall in love with the brand in the first place, such as championing the freedom to live your life the way you want to—unapologetically. This narrative does not come across yet strongly enough as the new Gucci emerges.

This could become Gucci’s biggest vulnerability in light of the reset, as a brand story provides its consumers with a lens that allows them to perceive, relate, and—most significantly—advocate for the brand. As Gucci transitions into a new epoch under the astute vision of De Sarno, maintaining crystalline clarity in its brand storytelling is a non-negotiable imperative for its long-term success following the initial hype.

Moreover, in an era where consumers are no longer passive recipients but active co-creators of brand stories, any ambiguity or inconsistency in the narrative can lead to a myriad of interpretations, which can dilute brand equity. The hyper-digital age necessitates that Gucci’s tales not only resonate but are also cohesive across all touch-points. From the immersive worlds of social media to the tactile luxury of flagship boutiques, the brand story must be felt by its clients comprehensively and consistently. If it’s just beautiful people wearing beautiful clothes on a beautifully styled runway and the only way to be certain about the brand is the logo, then there is no brand story. 


Named one of the “Global Top Five Luxury Key Opinion Leaders to Watch”, Daniel Langer is the CEO of the luxury, lifestyle and consumer brand strategy firm Équité, and the executive professor of luxury strategy and pricing at Pepperdine University in Malibu, California. He consults many of the leading luxury brands in the world, is the author of several best-selling luxury management books, a global keynote speaker, and holds luxury masterclasses on the future of luxury, disruption, and the luxury metaverse in Europe, the USA, and Asia.
 

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