Cover Highlights from the Paris Couture Week include looks from Rahul Mishra’s spring 2024 collection (Photo: Getty Images)

The spring 2024 couture collections have sparked excitement in the fashion community, with thought-provoking shows that intertwine stellar design with a touch of drama

Day one of Paris Couture Week set the bar high for celebrity sightings and thoughtful collections.

Social media videos from the front row of the Schiaparelli show saw the likes of Zendaya, Hunter Schafer and Jennifer Lopez admiring the maison’s spring 2024 collection while wearing signature items—such as golden sculptural jewellery and structured garments in black and white.

The rest of the week saw moments such as supermodel Naomi Campbell looking sleek and elegant at Alaïa, Kylie Jenner and Gossip Girl’s Kelly Rutherford catching up at Jean Paul Gaultier and British model Rosie Huntington-Whitely filming the Valentino finale.

But what about the designs themselves? We look at five presentations and the standout design moments the runway, from Rahul Mishra to Giambattista Valli.

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1. The mother-and-baby motif at Schiaparelli

Tatler Asia
Above The Schiaparelli baby (Photo: Instagram / @schiaparelli)
Tatler Asia
Above The Schiaparelli motherboard dress (Photo: Instagram / @schiaparelli)

The robot baby cradled by a model down the runway at Schiaparelli certainly turned heads, with its mechanical body made from electronic components such as batteries and wires. Its complementing item that was also presented on the runway was a motherboard dress, made from computer parts, discs, phones and more that glittered alongside the encrusted gems. The mother-and-baby motif was a commentary on the meeting of the future and the past, according to creative designer Daniel Roseberry, designed to evoke emotions about how our world is rapidly changing.

2. Flowers were in full bloom at Giambattista Valli

Flowers for spring can seem like a cliché, but Giambattista Valli added its own fun twist to this accepted trope in its latest collection. Large blooms were attached to model’s ponytails, cascading behind them as they walked in voluminous robes and feathered capes. Silhouettes gave nod to the 18th century robes à la Francais (or sack-back gowns), with side panels of fabric framing mini dresses, and the 19th century bustles with rounded backsides, and when combined with the florals, made for an opulent and royal effect.

3. Simone Rocha stunned at Jean Paul Gaultier

Since he retired from the runway in 2020, couturier Jean Paul Gaultier has invited guest designers to show for his namesake label every season, and this time, it was Irish Chinese designer Simone Rocha’s turn to stand at the helm. She surprised and delighted with an elevated take on her signature bows, pearls and affinity for delicate fabrics, presenting a collection that demonstrated both her masterful manipulation of fabric and her eye for timeless designs.

4. Embroidery reached new heights at Rahul Mishra

Indian couturier Rahul Mishra is known for his ample use of complex embroidery that celebrates traditional Indian craftsmanship and empowers local artisans. For this collection, he took a more literal approach to design, with garments that incorporated embroidery hoops featuring butterfly and dragonfly motifs. These hoops also acted as screens that framed models, adding a theatrical touch to the show.

5. John Galliano brought drama to Maison Margiela

From an innovative invite—that consisted of a white card encasing a Paris metro ticket—to the dimly lit indoor-outdoor show location—under the Pont Alexandre III bridge and the legendary Café Mouché—John Galliano’s vision for Maison Margiela’s spring 2024 was dark, mysterious and dramatic. Models sauntered between guests, interacting with them occasionally, wearing sheer ensembles, patchwork garments and cinched suits that combined the flair of Galliano’s style and Margiela’s elevated-minimalistic design codes.

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