Cover (Photo: Instagram/@inuikii)

Beyond Our Legacy and Ganni, the Scandi brands of the moment that you need to know

In the last decade, many contemporary fashion brands have emerged out of Copenhagen, with some like Ganni and Rotate achieving international acclaim. This season, Denmark’s capital has also become home to the largest and longest-running trade event in Northern Europe, due to a recent merger between historic trade show CIFF and its competitor Revolver, resulting in a giant exhibition of 650 fashion, lifestyle and beauty brands that drew more than double the number of visitors compared to previous years.

Many of these visitors were Asian buyers, mainly from Japan and Korea, according to Sofie Dolva, Director of CIFF x Revolver. “The Asian market is extremely important to us and has become even more so, given the relative conservatism shown by other markets during Covid-19,” she says. 

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Above Backstage at Paolina Russo spring-summer 2024 show (Photo courtesy of Paolina Russo)

The Japanese, Korean and Scandinavian markets have long shared similar approaches to aesthetics and lifestyle. “Even prior to the rise of Nordic fashion, Nordic lifestyle and interior [décor] trends were already gaining significant traction in the Korean market. The distinctive soft minimalism characteristic of Northern Europe resonates well with the clean and sophisticated style that Korean consumers seek,” says Seunghyun Lee, a member of the overseas merchandise strategy team at South Korea’s fashion conglomerate Handsome Corp. “Toteme, Our Legacy and Ganni have recently established mono-brand stores in Korea due to their popularity.”

In Japan, certain Scandinavian designers’ punchy prints and pastel hues have found an audience, according to Noriko Hama, a buyer for luxury department store Beams. “Interest is definitely growing in Japan, thanks to the eye-catching products, pop designs and prints,” she says. “Brands like Ganni and Cecilie Bahsen are very popular.” 

Read more: The world’s most sustainable fashion week: Copenhagen leading the way by embracing zero-waste shows and recycled fashion

Dolva shares that party-ready styles like slinky sequinned dress that are still firmly planted in Scandinavian heritage have also been gaining traction, as international perception of Scandinavian fashion shifts. Emerging designer Nicklas Skovgaard’s theatrical show filled with local textiles and balloon skirts is a testament to how young Danish designers are pushing the boundaries of their region’s established aesthetic.

This season, the CIFF x Revolver fair has also significantly increased the number of beauty brands on display, due to the local and international markets’ heightened demands for clean yet effective wellness products. “Gone are the days when clean beauty used to mean products made from leaves but do not actually work,” says Dolva. “Sustainability and transparency are a basic requirement in the brands we’re showcasing.” Lee shares that Korean interest in vegan and sustainable beauty brands, particularly among Gen Z, is rapidly growing. “This has made room for a variety of new brands, expanding beyond the Korean beauty realm traditionally dominated by established conglomerates,” he says.

Here, we help you get to know eight Scandinavian brands you should definitely have on your radar.

Mark Kenly Domino Tan

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James Cochrane
Above Mark Kenly Domino Tan spring-summer 2024 collection (Photo: James Cochrane/courtesy of Mark Kenly Domino Tan )
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Above Mark Kenly Domino Tan spring-summer 2024 collection (Photo: James Cochrane/courtesy of Mark Kenly Domino Tan )

Tan, a disciple of legendary fashion houses like Dior, Balenciaga and Alexander McQueen, became known for his tailoring prowess since founding his label in 2014. Now in the hands of Caroline Engelgaar, the brand continues its focus on long and lean silhouettes, and monastic coats—but with a twist. Flirty peplum hems and a few pearl-embellished looks were instant favourites in the latest collection. “I liked the structured tailoring and clean shirt designs, and how they apply the high-quality materials such as silk and soft cotton to elegant cuts,” says Hama. “Some items had stunning embroidery details that I loved.”

Stine Goya

When it comes to the bright pops of colour that Hama mentioned, Stine Goya’s latest collection takes the prize. The beautiful show, which took place on the street on which Goya resides, seemed to feature every colour of the rainbow—a glittery lilac co-ord, a fuchsia suit straight out of Barbie’s wardrobe and an elegant one-shouldered baby-blue dress modelled by icon Helena Christensen were just a few highlights.

 

The Garment

A fast-growing Danish brand championing monochromatic minimalism, The Garment, founded by design duo Charlotte Eskildsen and Sophia Roe, is one to watch. Staged among marble statues in Copenhagen’s Thorvaldsen’s Museum, the elegant collection featured crocheted napkin tops and sweeping shackets. Boxy tomboy silhouettes were paired with ballerina flats with sweet bows on the heels.

Paolina Russo

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Photo 1 of 4 Backstage at Paolina Russo spring-summer 2024 show (Photo courtesy of Paolina Russo)
Photo 2 of 4 Backstage at Paolina Russo spring-summer 2024 show (Photo courtesy of Paolina Russo)
Photo 3 of 4 Backstage at Paolina Russo spring-summer 2024 show (Photo courtesy of Paolina Russo)
Photo 4 of 4 Backstage at Paolina Russo spring-summer 2024 show (Photo courtesy of Paolina Russo)

The London-based brand founded by former Central Saint Martins design peers Paolina Russo and Lucile Guilmard made a splashy runway debut thanks to the designers’ expert manipulation of natural dyes on denim and innovative spin on folkloric clothing. Paolina Russo is the winner of the Zalando Visionary Award, a programme with a focus on sustainable practices run in partnership with Copenhagen Fashion Week and was a finalist for the LVMH Prize in 2023.

Helmstedt

Clouds were the inspiration for Emilie Helmstedt’s latest collection and clouds were what you’ll find on every fantastical look. Cloud bras made from art-shop crystals with crystal rain fringes, cloud-print silk trousers and swirling cloud-like quilted jackets were just a few playful examples. One can’t help but feel an infectious, childlike joy.

Rudolph Care

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Above Rudolph Care
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Above Rudolph Care lips products

Cult beauty followers might already know of this clean Danish skincare brand stocked at Oh My Cream, but having had the chance to delve into the brand’s history this season, Lee found that Rudolph Care went above and beyond other “clean beauty” labels. Founded in 2009 by Andrea Elisabeth Rudolph, the brand boasts a Nordic Swan Ecolabel and a Cosmos-certified stamp of approval for its effective use of acai berries from the Amazon rainforest in its products. “I was very impressed by the extensive range of products spanning skincare, suncare and haircare.”

Bongusta

Denmark-based label Bongusta sources fabric from certified producers in India to create eclectic pieces from bath robes to rugs. “The tote bag and trousers are my favourite. They use ultra-soft terry towel cloth to create lovely colour combinations. They feel so luxurious on the skin,” Hama says. 

Inuikii

Stylish platform sandals and trainers are what Inuikii are known for. While the founders Cinzia Maag and her sons Danilo and Alessio are Italian, Inuikii stood out at CIFF x Revolver fair, due to their use of sustainable materials sourced from Greenland. Hama says: “Their comfortable yet stylish slides (slippers) are a great addition to most summer outfits. Their vegan leather slipper collection was especially great—timeless and playful at the same time.”

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