Why the Ulysse Nardin Freak is so revolutionary

The chief growth officer waxes lyrical about the Freak, which redefined the wristwatch

Debuted in 2001, Ulysse Nardin's Freak made instantaneous impression with its audacity to do away with the common features of a wristwatch (think hands and a crown) in a bid to reimagine how timekeeping should work. The hands were replaced by a rotating carousel fitted with a tourbillon, both of which made a complete circle around the dial in an hour. Instead of a crown, it set the time with the bezel. It also pioneered the use of silicon for its escapement, setting the path for the anti-magnetic and corrosion-resistant material to be a commonplace in the industry today.

The following years saw the Freak piling on one mind-blowing innovations after another, culminating in the Freak S with a double oscillator and diamond-coated silicon last year. Now meet Freak One that distills the aesthetic features of past Freaks, from the notched bezel of the original 2001 to the black DLC titanium and rose gold case of Freak S. It comes with an integrated rubber strap made of 30 per cent recycled waste.

What's inside is equally fascinating, thanks to the automatic movement's Grinder winding system that is endowed with a 72-hour power reserve and designed to capture energy from the slightest wrist movement.

Above Ulysse Nardin Freak Onein black DLC-coated titanium and rose gold bezel

Matthieu Haverlan, chief growth officer of Ulysse Nardin, is part of the team involved in product development, and is instrumental in the realisation of Freak One. “What I love about Freak One is that it is super contemporary,” he enthuses. “We worked closely with the product team to improve the perceived value of the watch; for instance, we did different types of finishing for the bezel as well as the movement. It really feels precious.”

It is the first Freak to be accompanied by a rubber strap. “It’s 44mm [in case diameter], very well integrated with a rubber strap via short lugs. I love the way it feels on the wrist; it fits so well.”

Above The original Ulysse Nardin Freak from 2001

Do you see more new possibilities with the Freak?

The watch is constrained by the movement so you won‘t see a chronograph or a minute repeater Freak tomorrow as the movement doesn't allow that. But you will see more references of Freak One and we will continue to innovate technically where we can.

How has the behaviour of luxury consumers changed since the pandemic?

I was at a dinner in Dubai right before the pandemic and met some of our clients who were all wearing the watches from the usual suspects. I saw them again after the pandemic, and almost 100 per cent were wearing watches from independent watchmakers. There is a now a strong appetite for such watches.

We’ve also made huge progress in terms of our value in the secondary market, especially for the Freaks, which are already hard to get. The recent Phillips auction saw a Freak X The Hour Glass edition that retailed at CHF25,000 in 2019, purchased for CHF40,000. That was a huge premium and it meant a lot because now we can say that your Freak, your Ulysse Nardin, can hold its value.

Above Ulysse Nardin Freak S with double oscillator

Freak One has a strap partly made of recycled material. Is sustainability an important consideration at Ulysse Nardin moving forward?

It relates back to our DNA. As you know, our history began with marine chronometers for sea voyages. As a brand, we're concerned about ocean pollution and a way to highlight this issue to our customers is through our watches.

What is the significance of the Freak?

It’s the Ulysse Nardin story. It showcases our extraordinary capability at the forefront of modern watchmaking.

What are the advantages of being an independent brand again? (Ed's note: Kering sold Ulysse Nardin, along with Girard-Perregaux, to CEO Patrick Pruniaux last year.)

For one, our clients will find us much more accessible; they will be able to meet the people who are behind the brand. Secondly, it allows us to have a longer vision. Long term here is not two or three years but 10 years and more. It unleashes creativity, helps us to build a strong brand equity and brain capital, instead of focusing on generating short-term revenue. Plus, we can take the time to perfect a watch.

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Why the Freak watch is still so cool, according to Matthieu Haverlan of Ulysse Nardin